Out of both tires, even though Trail Hog is good enough on dry roads when it comes to directional grip, the overall on-road performance is seen better on Wildpeak AT3w (in both wet and dry conditions). And this goes for other performance areas as well, which include tread wear, comfort and mileage. Kanati A/T on the other side, does better on rugged terrains.
Although both tires provide you with very similar dry and wet grip on roads, with very close margin, the overall dry traction is seen better on Toyo AT3, while the wet, on Dynapro ATM. The Toyo AT3 basically features a harder compound, that's why it comfort, fuel economy and sand traction gets compromised. Though it also helps the tire with tread wear now doubt. And although both tires aren't so great with rocks or mud, Toyo still provides better efficacy there too.
Kumho Venture AT52 has made some really great technical advancements over AT51, as now the tire offers faster steering response and both wet and dry grip. Moreover, it also yields superior comfort and greater fuel economy compared to Open Country. Toyo AT3 on the other side, is also very great on dry roads, though it's wet traction is kind of disappointing. Other than that, you get a great tread life on this tire, and off-road it deals with mud and rocks better, though when it comes to sand it lacks to Kumho with a little bit of margin.
The Hankook Dynapro AT2 Xtreme is a better tire to have on pavements, its quieter, provides you with superior fuel economy and tread life, and is pretty great with hard packed snow, though both tires have 3pmsfr. Falken Wildpeak AT3w on the other side, does better off-road in nearly all terrains with it's tougher construction and self cleaning grooves. Though with its interlocking siping, it's also pretty great on wet roads.
If you have any damage on the sidewall, shoulder, or bead, you should replace your tire. Still, the inner part of the shoulder sometimes can be repairable. In this case, the limit is 1/2”. So, you can add 1/2” to each side of the tread center and find the exact location of the repairable area.
So as the name suggests, directional tires are made for only moving forward, so more specifically, in one direction. So, you can no just put these tires any way you want, you have to make sure they are all facing the same way. And they can't face backwards as that would cause for reduced performance, and traction along with even faster tread wear. That's why its hard to rotate these tires as well. But for safety, these tires are marked with directions and arrows pointing where these tires are intended to roll. Though you can easily tell if your tires are directional by just looking at them. The tread should be making a mirror images on each halves containing V shaped lugs.
Compared to on-road options, all-terrain tires would always wear a little faster, because they have more weight, a comparatively malleable lugs composition, and aggressive biters (generally speaking). All these contribute to rolling resistance, which then burns these tires faster. Though there are still some tires that do great and out of them, one of the top ranking ones in General Grabber A/TX. But not matter what all-terrain tire you have, (or planning to get), you can always increase the tread life, by keeping in mind the road condition's I discussed, keeping optimal pressure and ensuring alignment and rotation is done right.
Radial tires are the newest technology in the tire industry. They’re gonna stay best until the airless tires will show up. In summary, radial tires have cords running perpendicular to the direction of travel, providing better handling and fuel economy as well as a longer tread life than bias tires. I hope the article was helpful. Let me know if you have any further questions. Have a safe ride folks!
ZR is the old-school way to indicate speed rating, at that time, nobody though they would need such faster tires going above Z, but when high performance tires started coming in, the ZR was changed with Z. R mean radial construction, and its talked about in contrast to the other one, which is bias ply construction. R could also mean speed rating, depending on the position it is in the tire size (seen on the sidewalls).
So, to sum up, although all-terrain tires are notorious for being loud on roads, there are some on-road-oriented tires that are better. That's because with an aggressive design, tires having wider grooves and deeper tread voids allow more air to come in through the shoulder gaps and hit around the tread, generating noise. Moreover, some tires have stiffer shoulder lugs, due to the spirally wound inner plies, and these encourage air particles to hit (especially in the middle part of the tread) with full force, generating unwanted sound waves.
So overall when reading tire size, make sure you know what is the difference between LT and P metric sizes, what is the width and aspect ratio of the tire. What does R (Radial) mean? And how it's different from Bias Ply. And what load and speed ratings suit your drive the most. Lastly some other things to keep in mind is the tire's optimal air pressure values, tread depth, and tire's DOT code (manufacturing date).
Though it depends on your needs, I think overall for someone who need to go on multiple types of trails, all-terrain tires are really worth it. They are either not too aggressive like rugged or mud terrain tries, nor they are weaker like all season tires. So although with them you have to compromise on overall comfort and traction a little bit on highways, as these tires slow you down a little bit, they are a great all season option otherwise.